We explore the best collections and moments of London Mens’ Fashion Week SS16, Day 2.
Day two at London Men’s fashion week featured masculine motifs such as gangs and american football, as well as classic suiting as designers collaborated with Saville Row. Luckily, there was still room for humor, nostalgia, and even uncanny peek-a-boo moments.
Coach’s newest creative director Stuart Vevers was very experimental when it came to this collection as he attempted to revive a major fashion don’t: The Fanny Pack. As kids, we were ashamed to be seen with our parents sporting these unflattering accessories, and even on the catwalk, it still was a bit cringe worthy. Aside from the fanny pack, Vevers described this collection as “The Kennedy boys meet The Beach Boys meet The Beastie Boys”. Psychedelic neon abstract print gave life to bowling shirts, bags and shoes, as tiger and leopard print found on the trimmings of the parkas seemed to tone down the neon color scheme just a bit. The soft silhouettes of the clothing also worked to soften the collection although the palette was so bold.
What is spring and summer without a little athleticism? Sibling payed homage to the good ol’ fashion American love for football with their spring and summer collection. But, since Sibling is known for poking fun, it was of course football with the Sibliing twist. Sequins and other embroidery methods were used on jerseys as jocks bearing their rear ends and cheerleaders with pom-poms set the the tone. What really sparked the Siblings interest was there trip to America and revisited the vintage craftsmanship of American Football, relating certain stitching techniques used on the football and gear to haute couture. Â Viola, Siblings interpretation of football was born!
Who would’ve ever thought to create a mashup between VHS-age kung-fu movies with American hip-hop culture? Astrid Andersen, that’s who. Inspired by her recent trip to Shanghai, Andersen managed to create a collection that perfectly pays homage to both motifs without it being too overwhelming. Her use of brocade silks tied into the Asian theme, while brocade silk jerseys, related to hip-hop culture. After the show, Andersen proudly announced her future collaboration with A$AP Ferg and it couldn’t make more sense.
Inspired by the Hacienda scene in Manchester, late 1980s to early 1990s, Dalton recreated this era in a playfully trippy way, where she could happily relive the past: “I remember how sexy the guys were during this era” explains Dalton. the collection featured trippy checkered prints in vivid orange and blue as well as some sheer parkas and cargo shorts. Harrington jackets remained prominent throughout the collection serving as the statement piece.
Casely-Hayford found themselves drawing inspiration for this seasons collection from one of the most traumatic and often times drastic situations human beings can ever go through: moving. The father-son design duo found themselves relocating their studio from East London to North London where their surroundings completely changed. Bomber jackets and over coats have a biker vibe to them due to a nearby gang and some Colombian influences courtesy of the prominent cultural influence in that area. Casely-Hayford also incorporated their own trademark, combining tailoring with sportswear. Although there seems to be a lot of forces working against each other here, the design duo always seem to make their ideas mesh together in harmony.