Calvin Klein Resort 2017: The Brand Takes On Their First Project Without Former Creative Director Francisco Costa.
The Calvin Klein Resort 2017 collection comes just after the departure of Francisco Costa as creative director. Although the collection was designed based on ideas from Costa, the lineup was designed by the studio team. Touching on the brand’s DNA, the collection further modernizes the youthful, minimal and rebellious aesthetic that the brand has made into an empire.
Throughout the collection we saw remnants of Costa, particularly referencing his departing Fall 2016 collection. We saw Costa in the predominant workwear sensibility and topstitching details. His influence appeared again with the presence of polka dot and floral prints. However, the brand did break away a bit from Costa’s signature style. We began to take note of a more relaxed fit. It appeared to almost be a Rock and Roll vibe, somewhere between the billowing silhouettes of the 70s and the soft tailoring on 90s grunge.
Crisp white, pastels and khaki provoked a utilitarian, yet slightly rebellious mood. Details such as fine, hand-embroidered beading alongside floral prints added further intrigue. There were cotton tunics paired with wide-legged pants and trench coats. Knit baby-doll dresses made the eye dance while a fitted nude leather jacket styled with a matching A-line mini skirt hit us with a strong gust of fresh air. Belts were used to take in waists and create new silhouettes as they accessorized dresses and coats.
The brand’s Resort 2017 collection also referenced the’60s with its use of leather jackets and asymmetrical cuts paired with the sweetness of soft dresses. The most visually interesting moments occurred when the brand experimented with mixing different patterns and styles. For instance, A slip dress, constructed from varying prints and sizes styled almost unintentionally over a tunic with bunched up sleeves. There was a certain quiet rebellion against the usual linear formula of the brand.
Although the collection had several strong points, it wasn’t particularly memorable. Lacking a focused direction, we were left hanging. Perhaps it was Costa’s departure or just experimentation that wasn’t quite complete. It’s exciting to see the brand forge ahead. But now that we’ve come to expect so much, the stakes are now higher than ever.
See a few of our favorite looks from the Calvin Klein Resort 2017 collection bellow and stop by the brand’s site to see the full range of collections.