Raf Simons Reveals Calvin Klein Fall Winter 2017-2018 Collection, New York Fashion WeekBelgian born fashion designer Raf Simons is living the American dream- or at least what most remember it to be. He has found ingenuity in opportunity, leaving his signature mark along the way. Originally a furniture designer, Simons made the transition to menswear, birthing his eponymous Raf Simons label in 1995. Then a decade later, came his appointment at Jil Sander in 2012 followed by Christian Dior in 2015. So as Raf Simons begins his tenure as Chief Creative Officer on the Calvin Klein Fall 2017 runway, the moment has an added bit of significance. However, like all great artists, Simon’s finds a way to channel this energy into his work. “The first time I visited America I was 22, and it’s always been my dream to come here,” he shared backstage. What he offered was a new kind of National Anthem, or perhaps just a reminder of what always was. Fresh off the runway of his New York debut of his Raf Simons’s menswear label, the past few weeks for the designer have been filled with press, criticism and for onlookers, intrigue. Adding to the hype, was the release of a new Calvin Klein logo followed by an artistic Spring Summer 2017 ad campaign. The same sense of anticipation was present at the Calvin Klein Fall 2017 show this morning. Gathering to witness exactly what Simons would do for his collection, was a group of fashion insiders, editors, and celebrities. Names like Julianne Moore, Gwyneth Paltrow, A$AP Rocky and Naomie Harris decorated the front row. The show began with David Bowie’s “This Is Not America,” setting the stage for a sly political undertone. However, the designer wasn’t denouncing America. No, quite the opposite. Inspired by American youth culture, he offers a collection that feels nostalgic, classic, and curious. The Calvin Klein Fall 2017 collection held on to the modern sensibility usually seen on its runway. Elements such as clean, linear tailoring and an overall sense of minimalism were blended with Simons’ fondness of piquing, subtle visual interest. Take for example the appearance of check, gray suiting separates, paired with sheer, nude color tops. We also see illusions of flesh tones in knitwear, as Simons’ blends sheer nude torsos with knit long-sleeves. References to America didn’t end with the Bowie soundtrack. “I keep thinking of all the beauty here; you have to focus on that now. And I think American youth is the future for this country. It’s about gathering. It’s intelligent, honest, powerful, beautiful. It sounds almost simplistic, maybe,” he shared with WWD. Simons’ sold the idea with a varied assortment of vintage feeling prints and color. Take for instance the Glen check pattern used for trench coats that were then covered in what looked to be a plastic, slip-cover. The same clear, plastic material was seen covering dresses adding an almost voyeuristic quality. Simons’ also shows flashes of traditional quilting, as he lines the insides of jackets and constructs long trench coats. Despite the nuances, he didn’t forget the basics. Raf Simons’ update to the Calvin Klein denim collection was minimal, offering the usual assortment of relaxed, denim jeans, tops, and jackets. For a moment, we thought the show was over, but it was but a brief creative interlude. An ode to the classics. Next up was a series of saturating looks in ranging from green to red to purple. Soon after, followed full leather looks of brown then black pants and tops. Ending the collection on a high note, we see contemporary evening dresses constructed of that same plastic material, now with added interest from what seemed to be feathers beneath. Altogether, Calvin Klein Fall Winter 2017-2018 was a success for Raf Simons. He managed to find a sense of newness, while still holding on to the element of heritage that makes the Calvin Klein brand so great. One also has to consider the designer’s conflict. With the Raf Simons label still very much alive, will he opt to save his best narratives for the eponymous label. Only time will tell, but thus far Simons’ proves that he’s up for the job. Keep scrolling below to see our top 10 looks from Calvin Klein Fall 2017 Collection. You can also check out all the latest New York Fashion Week Collections here. [tps_header]Calvin Klein Fall 2017 Collection, New York Fashion Week[/tps_header]
Want to be a fashion insider?Subscribe here for the latest updates direct to your inbox!