Milan Fashion Week FW16: The Best from the Runways of Milan Fashion Week.
Experimental Fashion and Atelier Construction Reign As Designers Return To The Past And Step Out Of Their Comfort Zones During Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2016.
Ports 1961 Fall Winter/2016
Creative Director Natasa Cagalj traveled back toÂ her youth for this year’s Ports 1961 collection. Tracing back to days when she was only a mere fashion student at Central Saint Martins and progressing ahead through her career at fashion houses Helmut Lang and Stella McCartney in the 80s and 90s, Cagalj offers a multi-dimensional explanation of her unique aesthetic.
It was certainly no surprise to findÂ Helmut Lang inspired Â aspects to the tailoring of the clothing, with a little more edge for runway appeal. ” I loved it [Helmut Lang] because it was down to earth, practical, and yet something very gentle and poetic about it” said Cagalj backstage. The collection’s main focus was tailoring. Trousers erected themselves creating statuesque silhouettes as the designer introduced high-waisted, oversized trousers. Blouses were transformed into statement pieces with the addition of meticulous cuts, creating trailing ribbons that fluttered behind the models as they walked. Outerwear was roomy in the shoulders, and one of our favorite looks, a white double-breasted suit presented just the right balance of form and functionality.
Check out a few of our favorite look from Ports 1961 Fall Winter 2016, Milan Fashion Week.
Sportmax Fall Winter/2016
Koos van der Akker of Sportmax delivered a collection enamored with maximalist details while provoking clean minimalist silhouettes. MostÂ details were directional; lines were vertical, horizontal and concave. Skirts were sliced open at the sides revealing plisse effects on fabric. We also sawÂ details such as mesh netting thrown over a dress and tucked underneath a handsome vertical lined mink coat.
The collection seemed overwhelming at times, but if one were to dissect each look, he wouldÂ find the inherent artistry in each piece. Take the outerwear for example, there was a meticulously designed leather patch-work coat, a high-collared black coat with white piping stitching on the collar (the same iteration also in reverse), there was also Moroccan style rectangular patterns of olive, Bordeaux, and ochre on the sleeves of coats and shoulders, all working together to create a feeling of nuvo art that was neither classical nor modern.
Akker was aiming in a direction many mainstream fashion designers aren’t, and we respect that.
Check out a few of our favorite look from Sportmax Fall Winter 2016, Milan Fashion Week.
Les Copains Fall Winter/2016
Les Copains is a label known for its innovative knitwear and Creative Director, Stephania Bandiera, showcasedÂ the label’s best asset by introducing the versatility of knits throughout her collection.
We saw maxi cardigans, mohair pullovers, turtlenecks and 8-foot scarves draped in couture fashion. The collection was very feminine in essence, with a mashup of knits, lace, pleated treatments, sheer fabric, and leather. The vibe was eclectic with some hints of punk rock, including a series of spiders that made for fabulous broaches. Bandiera addresses a decidedly, high-waisted silhouette. Collection staples included high-waisted trousers and razor sharp pencil skirts (think Marlene Deitrich). Ruffled tops were tucked into high-waisted trousers, skirts or underneath cashmere sweaters with added details such as bust cut-outs. There were also handsome pieces in a beautiful Prince of Wales print complimented further by an undertone of soft blush hues, making for a very progressive, yet romantic collection.
Check out a few of our favorite look from Les Copains Fall Winter 2016, Milan Fashion Week.
Jacquemus Fall Winter/2016
Remember days and nights of playing dress-up in your mother or father’s wardrobe? Remember everything feeling larger than life? Young designer Simon Porte Jacquemus brought us back to wanderlust days of yesterdayÂ as models walked down hisÂ runway in an array of frumpy oversized clothing that was either mismatched, ripped apart, orÂ over-exaggerated. The undo-redo method we saw during London Fashion Week, seemed to have made it’s way to Milan.
Silhouettes were oversized, especially in the shoulders, with blazers and other outerwear introducing ideas of an exaggerated physique. It was so extreme in so instances that it often appeared as if the models were donning football gear underneath dresses, blouses, and suits. Jacquemus employed an eclectic mix of fabrics in the construction of each look. We saw pin-stripped fabrics, simple cottons, and bold polka dot fabrics all intermingled often into one bodice. Delicate details such as night gown straps were made to feel more innovative by being styled visibly over other articles of clothing or even more dramatically a nightgown attached to a look, hanging off, as if it were caught in a steady burst of wind and kept there for a second in time.
There is always that one designer during fashion week that reminds us not to take fashion too seriously. It’s supposed to be fun!
Check out a few of our favorite look from Jacquemus Fall Winter 2016, Milan Fashion Week.
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