We explore the best collections of Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS16, Day 1
Suiting during Men’s Fashion week is inevitable, but at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, the variations of of suiting and different techniques to tailoring made it worth while.From traditional, to Androgynous, to Japanese inspiration. The motifs and styling of the runways shows and presentation paint a picture of what the modern man will look like, as we continue to blur the lines between sexuality.
“We definitely have more flexibility to play with, more agility. I think now people will dress with a fluid trouser for one look and then maybe a suit that is very tailored. There is less conformity and more mixing up” Designer Jay Vosoghi explained after his presentation. The collection embodied 70s motif with yellows and brown, with tropical prints and relaxed silhouettes. The trousers were wider and drapier and the silhouettes in the sport jackets were narrower in the shoulders and shorter, almost cropped, for a more modern appeal. A bold color palette complimented the spring summer 16 mood.
This season Iceberg journeyedÂ back to their origins; recreating the 70s. But instead of playing complete homage to a certain time period, which is unlike the designer Federico Currad, instead the collection reflected upon Â “the radicalism and organic intellectualism of a unique time in Italian culture.” An obvious hint to that would be how the models posed in front of piles of books, but instead he drew inspiration from Michelangelo Antonioni’s film Zabriskie Point. The film is set during the time period of cultural awareness and unity. Currad’s use of a neutral color palette with khaki and browns accompanied by deep navy’s really set the mood for the vibe he was going for.
As mentioned before, Mens fashion week so far has been pushing the envelope when it comes to sexuality and gender. Andrea Pompilio’s spring/summer 16 collection was all that and more. While the silhouettes of the garments were seemingly feminine, the styling of each look had a “thrown together” appeal to them, embodying an effortless look. Pompilio’s revealed that his inspiration behind the collection was a group of friends staying at a grandmas place in the middle of the countryside, which would explain the number of seemingly random props, such as boots resembling garden boots and satin scarves tied loosely around the necks of the models.
Armani, continued to do what they do best, bringing together Eastern and Western fashion motifs to one runway. The asymmetrical trims on garments and silhouettes, as well as baggy trousers hinted strongly toward Eastern fashion, while a lot of the suits remained true to Western tailoring standards. The color palette was very Armani with greys, navy’s taupes, and hints of greens. The collection had paisley prints, and jacquard with embroidery.
“Juxtaposition” might as well have been the title of Ermenegildo Zegna SS16, as the color pallet busied itselfÂ displaying the contrast between the color scheme as models strutted down the runway. The color palette ranged from the heaviness of black, to a lightweight powder pink and transparent white. Designer Stefano Pilati described the collection as “sexy tailoring” applying the weightlessness of femininity to the stern tailoring and constructions that is menswear.Â Pilati also explains his attempts to reach a new type of consumer with his collection: a businessman of the digital age whose suit is more than just a uniform, but a form of self expression. Indeed this marks the idea of the “Broken Suit”, appropriate for an unconventional work atmosphere that is a promising environment for the future.
Want to be a fashion insider?Subscribe here for the latest updates direct to your inbox!